The Varsity Jacket Renaissance: Your Style And Care Guide
Dec 6, 2023
If there’s one piece that has earned its status as a failsafe staple, it’s the varsity jacket. A style that has remained popular for almost 200 years, it’s been championed by tastemakers including the late Virgil Abloh, who made it his personal signature and featured the design in many of his collections. Also known as the letterman jacket, the style was originally worn by elite baseball teams at Ivy League universities across the US as far back as the 1860s, where the letter of the team was applied to the front of the jacket. Then, in the 1980s, a renaissance was triggered by everyone from Princess Diana to NWA and Run DMC. Fast-forward to the present day, and heavily customized versions are designed by the likes of Dior Homme and Off-White, with the style a firm favorite among celebrities such as Tyler, the Creator, Justin Bieber and many more. And for spring/summer 2022, Vetements, Versace, Burberry and Givenchy released their own versions of the varsity, making it the cult transeasonal jacket of the year.
Keep it classic
To strip the collegiate style back to its core construction, fabrics vary between wool, leather or both. Other original and signature design details include letterman appliqué to the front, back or sleeve, two front slip pockets, and striped elasticated cuffs, hem and stand-up collar. ‘They were originally introduced to the fashion conversation by Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme, Saint Laurent and now Celine,’ continues Raymond. Brands making a case for a minimal or classic take on the jacket include Amiri and Alexander McQueen — this pared-back approach ‘allows for versatile styling with appeal across different style tribes,’ says Raymond.
Care: Dry clean, or hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent, soak for 10-15 minutes, rinse thoroughly with cool water then air dry. Dry clean or hand wash wool and wipe any dirt away using a slightly damp soft cloth. For leather, always clean in the same direction as the grain.